COOLINGAfter the boil is complete the wort must be cooled to about 70 degrees F. Temperatures may vary slightly based on the style of beer and type of yeast that is used. At this point, the faster the wort (young beer) can be cooled, the better. During the cooling process the young beer is exposed to air and other particles floating along. While during the boil there isn't as much concern for contamination, once the temperature of the wort starts dropping the risk for contamination rises. A faster cooling period also helps the trub (slurry of hops, leftover grains, and other byproducts) settle in the kettle.
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There are a number of ways to accomplish the task of cooling the wort. Setting the kettle in 4 foot piles of snow in the yard can even be helpful in the winter. In the event its the other 80% of the year that doesn't have snow, a laundry tub with ice water and a wort chiller are probably the most common methods. A method I use is a wort chiller connected to a 75 gph pond pump and a 5 gal bucket of cold water. The pond pump cycles the water through the coil and is pumped back into the bucket for a closed loop. With a second 5 gal bucket to switch in after the first 10 min the wort can be brought down to 70 degrees in 15-20 minutes. Don't forget some extra hose clamps for where the tubing meets the wort chiller. You don't want any unsterile water contacting your freshly boiled wort.
Wort Chiller and Pump
A 75 gallon per hour pump can be found at home improvement stores like Lowes and Home Depot for around $20.
Additionally, Wort Chillers can be picked up from most local home brew supply store or you can buy copper tubing and coil one yourself. Be sure to fill the copper pipe with sand to prevent kinks while bending; those will really restrict water flow.
Additionally, Wort Chillers can be picked up from most local home brew supply store or you can buy copper tubing and coil one yourself. Be sure to fill the copper pipe with sand to prevent kinks while bending; those will really restrict water flow.